Thursday, 29 March 2018

Calanais


One of our library clients has a son in law from Harris and my library buddy Alex quick as a flash dobbed me in as someone who knows the islands. I always find this a bit tricky. A lot of Scottish people are totally ignorant about anywhere outside Glasgow and Edinburgh (and maybe Dundee and Aberdeen but definitely not Inverness or anywhere north or west of there).

Still, I'm happy to admit to knowing a bit about the islands. I've visited quite a few bits of Lewis and Harris but it is a vast island - at least compared to places I know in Argyll and Bute. Heavenssake, Stornoway has traffic lights! An island with traffic lights - how amazing is that!...Islay once had traffic lights when there were roadworks. We all went out and took photos.

But that's really all it took: a wee bit of a chat and I was off on a journey back in time. I used to go to meetings in places like Aberdeen, Inverness and Stornoway. I got fed up with people telling me how far away these places were (only if you live in the Central Belt), how difficult they were to get to (what, 45 minutes on a plane from Glasgow or Edinburgh?). It was like people imagined the earth was flat and you'd drop off the edge if you crossed the Minch.

The big word was 'remote.' I've grown to hate that word. When families of Syrian refugees went to live on Bute, UK media were beside themselves: It's so remote! Aye: 30 minutes on the boat and 30 minutes on the train and you're in Glasgow. How remote is that!

But Lewis and Harris, that's different. All the time I was flying up and down attending meetings, I knew I wasn't seeing much outside Stornoway and South Lochs - although I love them both and could easily see myself living in either place. So one time I booked myself a few days leave, hired a car and after my meetings were over I set off first to see the stones at Calanais.

I have to say I've seen lots of sites of historical interest: the priory at Oronsay (though I would spell it Oransay), the Kildalton Cross, Cladville at Portnahaven on Islay, Kilnaughton Chapel, Kilmartin Glen. I could go on.

But Calanais blew me away. There's a visitor centre, with a gift shop full of paintings and craft work and a cafe. Just as you would expect these days. But nothing prepares you for the Calanais Stones. It's like you've walked into someone's back garden and a prehistoric monument has been set up there for your enjoyment. It is magnificent. Partly it's the setting: there are houses all around, so it seems as if the Stones are just part of the village. But there's also the quiet, the views of water and hills and the absolute peace. All of it makes you wonder why the Stones are here. What purpose did they serve in their time? Do they still fulfill a purpose?

I would like everyone to enjoy a few hours at Calanais or at a similar site. And ask: Where did these people come from? What did they want to tell us? Because every group wants to tell the coming generations something.

But above all, just accept what a wonderful country Scotland is. Who knows how old? Just look and enjoy - and respect.



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